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Originally posted by nickyf
Loving the advice and the banter between the posters, I had a quote earlier £200 and they will dig down a few inches, put an underground fitting to the lead coming out of the ground, with an alkethine fitting with a stopcock converting from alkathene to copper then a washing machine connector on the end, I would have a go myself with either a lead loc or a philmac utc , but as its a live pipe and quite old and the only way to shut it off is via the street stopcock i would prefer a professional to do it , If I was in your shoes I would pay that it seems reasonable the alternative for me would be a DIY disaster. I'm not bothered if I pay a little bit over the odds if the job is done well. If it lasts whilst you live in your house it is money well spent.
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My thoughts exactly badger
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Amazingly, I think i have a morsel of informative advice. Just a tiny bit. As you are using existing metal pipes, please ensure when you backfill, that no cement/concrete is filled on the pipe, or fittings. Cover with gravel/sand first around the pipe and then top with whatever covering exists. This is because : 2. Cement/concrete is extremely (alkaline) corrosive and will eventually burn through metal piping.
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Originally posted by Badger11
If I was in your shoes I would pay that it seems reasonable the alternative for me would be a DIY disaster. I'm not bothered if I pay a little bit over the odds if the job is done well. If it lasts whilst you live in your house it is money well spent. Yeah, 200 well spent, you could easily turn water off out in street with a certain spanner, i got one but not sure what its called, it was the other technical stuff i got lost on, but i would pay up and be finished with it!
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Originally posted by Forest Hillbilly
Amazingly, I think i have a morsel of informative advice. Just a tiny bit. As you are using existing metal pipes, please ensure when you backfill, that no cement/concrete is filled on the pipe, or fittings. Cover with gravel/sand first around the pipe and then top with whatever covering exists. This is because : 2. Cement/concrete is extremely (alkaline) corrosive and will eventually burn through metal piping.
Thanks forest, good advice for another time, makes sense but wouldn"t have thought of it
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Put some polystyrene around it as you can form a decent space and its pre lagged . Then you can cement up to it. You will get a sheet on ebay to cut out slices to form a square.
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Originally posted by cryrst
Put some polystyrene around it as you can form a decent space and its pre lagged . Then you can cement up to it. You will get a sheet on ebay to cut out slices to form a square. Another great idea cryrst, i"m keeping these in the locker for another day!
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Originally posted by croydon proud
Another great idea cryrst, i"m keeping these in the locker for another day! Well keep the original I put as well cos that's legit also.
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Originally posted by cryrst
Well keep the original I put as well cos that's legit also. That was to complicated, i will get you round when it gets that tough!
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LOL.....Professionals not necessarily that good....only last week my neighbour had a plumber in, fancy van with all the signage. Went to turn mains of at the stopcock on the pavement.....managed to break it.....Water pissing everywhere.....at which point he made a run for it and buggered off. Thames Water had to come out and sort it and were looking to charge someone.
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If the stopcock broke out in the street then it was probably seized and should have been inspected or replaced years ago, my stopcock out side my house wouldn't turn and I rang the water board and they replaced it free of charge, there are loads of properties that have got faulty stop cocks and people are none the wiser, check if your taps are working folks as you could end being flooded. Edited by nickyf (28 Jun 2020 5.29pm)
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Water Companies obligations end at the property boundary. If the pipes are on your property, it's your responsibility. Anything outside of your property is the water company's responsibility
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